CycleBoard Help Center
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Troubleshooting, Parts, and Maintenance
Adjustments, noises, error codes, power issues, product support, & more.
Brake Bleeding
Bleeding the brakes removes air from the braking system and restores a firm brake handle. It is recommended that the brakes are bled every 6-12 months to properly maintain safe braking operations. Brake Bleeding Video Required Equipment CycleBoard Brake Bleed Kit (there are also other compatible brake bleed kits on the market) 4 mm Allen Clean Rag Procedures Adjust the Brake Handle Position - Loosen the two screws on the brake handle bracket and tilt the handle downward 20-30 degrees and tighten the brake handle at that angle. Remove the Bleed Screw -Remove the bleed screw and the rubber O-ring with the red-handled T-15 Torx provided in the kit Assemble the Syringe -Assemble a syringe with a rubber tube followed by a brass fitting (the one with the larger threaded end), and finally an O-ring on the threads of the brass fitting. Fill the syringe with 5 mL of fluid by pulling up on the syringe with the tip that emerged in the bottle of mineral oil. Screw the syringe into the brake handle and tighten it firmly by the hand. Pump the Handle -Pull the brake handle firmly through the full travel as you would when braking and repeat every 1-2 seconds. Pause to allow air bubbles to rise into the syringe and continue pulling the brake handle. Steering the board to the right will help allow more air to rise to the top. Stop once no bubbles are rising into the syringe. Remove the Syringe -Remove the syringe by unthreading the brass fitting from the brake handle (turn counterclockwise). Install the O-ring and bleed screw with the red-handled T15 Torx and clean up any residual mineral oil with a clean rag. Finally, Adjust the brake handle to the desired position with a 4 mm Allen wrench. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Brake Pad Replacement
Brake material will wear out over time as the mechanical brakes are used which will require replacement. The pads can also get contaminated by dirt and other debris which may result in a squeaking noise most noticeable at slow speeds when coming to a complete stop. Required Equipment 3 mm Allen (only needed if the rear fender is installed) 5 mm Allen 8 mm Socket (only needed if the rear fender is installed) Needle Nose Pliers New Brake Pads Procedures Opening the Deck - Models with a rear fender installed will require the removal of the fender to access the caliper mounting screws. Remove the 4 lock nuts under the left edge of the deck with an 8 mm socket to hinge and lift up on the left side of the deck to hinge open. Fender Removal - Remove the fender mounting screws with a 3 mm (older models may require a 4 mm Allen) and tuck the fender away on top of the controller. Remove the Caliper - Fully remove both screws that mount the brake caliper with a 5 mm Allen and pull the caliper off the mount and brake disk. Avoid touching the surface of the brake disk as well as the surface of the brake pads to prevent contamination. Remove the Brake Pads - Straighten the end of the cotter pin and pull the pin out. Install the Brake Pads - Slide the old brake pads out and install the new brake pads. Bend the Cotter Pin - Slide the cotter pin in from the tire side of the caliper and bend the end with needle-nose pliers to a 45-degree angle. It is important to ensure the cotter pin is inserted from the tire side to properly secure the brake pads. Mount the Caliper - Install the caliper with the mounting bolts using a 5 mm Allen and loosen the bolts 1-2 turns after tightening all the way down. Adjusting the Caliper - Place a helmet or a small box under the rear of the board to get the rear tire off the ground. Adjust the caliper side to side at the front and rear screw to align the caliper with the brake disk. There should be a sliver of light visible between the brake disk and the pads when looking straight down. Spin the tire to ensure that the disk does not rub the brake pads and tighten the bolts down firmly. The bolts may need to be loosened and lightened multiple times to align the caliper and it will help to focus on aligning the caliper at one screw and then switching back and forth until fully aligned. Mount the Fender - Reinstall and tighten all screws before closing the deck. Close the Deck - Close the deck and install the 4 lock nuts under the left edge of the deck with an 8 mm socket. With the finger nuts installed in place of the locknuts, the deck can be opened in seconds with no tools. If the deck does not need to be opened frequently then it is recommended to keep the lock nuts installed for extra security. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Brake Sensor Adjustment
All Models - The brake sensor performs the function of cutting power to the motor when the brake handle lever is pulled. Adjust the brake sensor only if the display turns on and there is no power when the throttle is engaged while pushing the board (there may or may not be an error code on the display) Required Equipment 8 mm Wrench or Adjustable Crescent Wrench 2.5 mm Allen Procedures Unplug the Brake Sensor - Unplug the lower cable on the brake handle by firmly pulling apart the connector. With the sensor connector unplugged, turn the display on and press the throttle while pushing the board. If the motor now receives power then continue to step two. If the board is still inoperable check for error codes and continue with general troubleshooting procedures. Brake Sensor Set Screw - Loosen the brake sensor set screw 1 full revolution (counterclockwise) with a 2.5 mm Allen. Adjust the Brake Sensor - Plug the brake sensor connector back in and loosen the brake sensor with an 8 mm wrench or an adjustable crescent wrench ½ of a turn counterclockwise. Ride the Board - Turn the display on and press the throttle while pushing the board to see if the motor is receiving power. Repeat steps 3 and 4 by loosening the sensor ½ of a turn at a time and trying to ride until the board operates normally and then loosening the brake sensor ½ of a turn extra. Brake Sensor Set Screw - Tighten the set screw next to the sensor with a 2.5 mm Allen (clockwise). Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Brake Caliper Adjustment
A ticking noise coming from the rear of the board is an indication that the caliper is out of alignment and needs to be adjusted. This noise will usually be most noticeable under hard turns where the rear of the board can flex slightly. Brake Caliper Adjustment Video Required Equipment 3 mm Allen (only needed if the rear fender is installed) 5 mm Allen 8 mm Socket (only needed if the rear fender is installed) Procedures Opening the Deck - Models with a rear fender installed will require the removal of the fender to access the caliper mounting screws. Remove the 4 lock nuts under the left edge of the deck with an 8 mm socket to hinge and lift up on the left side of the deck to hinge open. Fender Removal - Remove the fender mounting screws with a 3 mm (older models may require a 4 mm Allen) and tuck the fender away on top of the deck. Adjusting the Caliper - Place a helmet or a small box under the rear of the board to get the rear tire off the ground. Loose the 2 screws on top of the caliper with a 5 mm Allen enough so that the caliper can slide side to side slightly (1-2 revolutions counterclockwise). Adjusting the Caliper - Move the caliper side to side until the brake pads align with the brake disk and there is a small sliver of light on each side of the disk where it passes through the brake pads tighten the screws with a 5 mm Allen enough to hold the caliper in place. Spin the rear wheel and make sure there is no ticking noise from the brake disk touching the brake pads and then tighten the mounting screws down all the way. If necessary loosen the screws and adjust further before firmly tightening the caliper mounting screws. Mount the Fender - Reinstall and tighten all screws before closing the deck. Close the Deck - Close the deck and install the 4 lock nuts under the left edge of the deck with an 8 mm socket. With the finger nuts installed in place of the locknuts, the deck can be opened in seconds with no tools. If the deck does not need to be opened frequently then it is recommended to keep the lock nuts installed for extra security. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Brake Handle Replacement (Hydraulic)
It is recommended to only replace the brake handle if the handle has been damaged from a crash or the brakes do not perform adequately even when bled. Bleed the brakes after performing a brake handle replacement. Required Equipment 4 mm Allen Wrench 8 mm Wrench Procedures Brake Handle Bracket - Remove the 2 screws on the brake handle bracket with a 4 mm Allen to pull the brake handle off the handlebar. Brake Handle Removal - Unplug the brake sensor connector by pulling it apart firmly on each side of the connector. Pull back the rubber cover on the brake line and fully loosen the screw all the way with an 8 mm wrench or an adjustable crescent. Handle Replacement - With the brake line screw removed and slid back on the line twist and pull the brake handle off the brake line. Remove the screw on the new brake handle, push the brake line firmly into the new brake handle and tighten the brake line screw back into the brake handle to secure the brake line. Brake Handle Bracket - Reinstall the brake handle onto the handlebar with a 4 mm Allen. Brake Bleeding - Follow the brake bleeding guide to properly bleed the brake with the new handle installed. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Front Wheel Alignment
The alignment process brings the front wheels into parallel (from a bird's-eye view), also known as zero toe, when the handle post is vertical ensuring the longest tire life and the most predictable steering performance. Required Equipment 6 mm Allen (2019 and earlier models will require a 5 mm Allen instead) 13 mm socket Ratched (for 13 mm socket) Tape measure Level Procedures Level the Deck - Use a level perpendicular to the length of the deck to ensure the deck is completely flat. Do this with the board resting on a flat and level surface. Front Measurement - Measure the distance between the outer grooves in the tire tires approximately halfway up the tires at the furthest point forward (22 3/4” below). For the Elite and Elite Pro, measure between the center grove on the tires. Rear Measurement - Repeat the procedure for the rear edge of the tires by measuring underneath the chassis so that the tape measure is touching the bottom of the chassis (22 5/8” below). Compare measurements - Subtract the bigger measurement from the smaller measurement => 22 ¾” - 22 ⅝” = ⅛” (the difference between the front and the rear of the tire ⅛”) If the difference is less than ¼” or 6 mm then the tires are aligned properly and the alignment process is complete. If the difference is greater than ¼” or 6 mm then continue to step 5. Remove the Lock Nuts - Remove the lock nuts on either both sides where the tie rod attaches to the wheel pivot with a 13 mm socket (an extension for the socket will make this easier) Remove the Steering Linkage Bolt - Remove the steering linkage bolt below the lock nuts removed from above with a 6 mm Allen on both sides (2019 models and older will require a 5 mm hex). Tire Rod Adjustment - Rotate the tie rods from the rod ends according to the options below. If the measurement at the front of the tires was larger than the measurement at the rear of the tires, then loosen the rod end with a 14 mm wrench (counterclockwise) by 1/2 of a revolution, reattach the bolt to the pivot, then repeat on the opposite wheel. If the measurement at the rear of the tires was larger than the measurement at the front of the tires, then tighten the rod end with a 14 mm wrench (clockwise) by 1/2 of a revolution, reattach the bolt to the pivot, then repeat on the opposite wheel. If the bolt cannot be removed from the tie rod in the picture above then rotate a full revolution. Check the Alignment - With the steering linkage reattached to the wheel pivots on each side, repeat the first 4 steps to check the alignment before continuing to the next step. If the wheels are still not aligned then also complete steps 5-8 again before continuing to the next step. Tighten the Lock Nuts - Once the alignment is complete use the 6 mm Allen and the 13 mm socket to fully tighten both the wheel bolt and the locknut. Repeat on both sides. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Front Tire/Tube Replacement (10" x 3")
Rover/Golf. This guide provides the instructions for the replacement of the Front tires (10" x 3") for the Rover and Golf models. Front Tire Replacement Video - Rover / Golf Models It is recommended to perform an alignment after the first front tire replacement by following the steps outlined in the Front Wheel Alignment Guide. This will ensure the longest tire life and best steering performance. Required Equipment 8 mm Allen 10 mm socket Ratchet (for 10 mm socket) Bike Pump Recommended Equipment Loctite 242 (removable threadlocker) Torque Wrench + 8 mm Hex Bit Procedures Wheel Removal - Loosen and remove the wheel bolt with an 8 mm Allen by turning the wheel bolt counterclockwise. Deflating the Tire - Use the 5 mm Allen to deflate the tire completely. Separating the Rim - Use the 10 mm socket to remove the 5 lock nuts on the inner side of the wheel. Flip the wheel over and then remove the 5 screws with a 5 mm Allen. Separating the Rim - Inflate the tire with 5-10 psi to help push the two halves of the rim apart. Inner Tube Installation - Deflate the innertube enough to remove it from the old tire and install it into the new tire with the valve facing upward and the drive arrow pointing to the right for the right wheel when at the top of the tire (setup for right wheel below). For the Left wheel the drive arrow below when pointing to the left when at the top of the wheel. Wheel Assembly - Place the rim with the 5 threaded holes down on a table and insert the wheel spacer into the hole in the center of the wheel as seen below Wheel Assembly - Place the tire over the rim making sure the valve aligns with the slot in the rim. Place the second half of the rim onto the assembly below and fully tighten the screws with a 5 mm Allen. Wheel Assembly - Flip the wheel over and tighten install the 5 lock nuts with a 10 mm socket. While tightening hold tension on the screw from the other side with the 5 mm Allen. Install the Wheel - Install the wheel bolt into the wheel and tighten very firmly with an 8 mm Allen making sure that the valve of the tire faces outward and away from the board. It is highly recommended to use Loctite 242 (or a similar removable thread locker) and the recommended torque spec is 40 Nm (30 ft-lb). All-wheel bolts come with a red Loctite patch on the threads that are rated for several reinstallations, but it is highly recommended to apply more Loctite as a secondary measure for keeping the bolts tight. Inflate Tire - Inflate each front tire to 35 psi. Warning or recommendations Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Front Wheel Replacement (8.5" x 2.25")
Elite/Elite Pro. Elite / Elite Pro Front Wheel Replacement Video The 8.5” x 2.25” Front Wheel is sold fully assembled and will need to be replaced when the tread wears out or the tire no longer holds air. It is recommended to perform an alignment after the first front-wheel replacement by following the steps outlined in the Front Wheel Alignment Guide. This will ensure the longest tire life and best steering performance. Required Equipment 8 mm Allen Bike Pump Recommended Equipment Loctite 242 (removable threadlocker) Torque Wrench + 8 mm Hex Bit Procedures Wheel Removal - Loosen and remove the wheel bolt with an 8 mm Allen by turning the wheel bolt counterclockwise. Install the New Wheel - Install the wheel bolt into the new wheel and tighten very firmly with an 8 mm Allen making sure the drive arrow points forward when at the top of the wheel. It is highly recommended to use Loctite 242 (or a similar removable threadlocker) and the recommended torque spec is 40 Nm (30 ft-lb). All-wheel bolts come with a red Loctite patch on the threads that are rated for several reinstallations, but it is highly recommended to apply more Loctite as a secondary measure for keeping the bolts tight. Inflate Tire - Inflate each front tire to 35 psi. Before every ride check the front wheels by tilting the board to the side until one of the front wheels is off the ground, grab the wheel with one hand and shake side to side making sure each front wheel bolt is fully tightened. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Removing / Replacing your Old Front Springs
How to remove & replace your old front springs Follow these steps below to learn how you can remove your old front springs and how to replace them with new ones: How to remove & replace your Old Springs Video Required Equipment New Replacement Springs Flat Head Tool / Screwdriver Some Elbow Grease How to remove your front springs Turn your CycleBoard over - Carefully turn your CycleBoard upside down, revealing the underside of the front of your Board. Find & Locate the Front Springs- Find the spring you want to replace. Using your flat head screwdriver, push & bend the spring so that it pops over the tabs holding it in place. It make take some force to get the spring to pop out of place. Having someone there with you to assist you in holding your board should make it a bit easier when applying pressure to the spring. Once you pop it out of place, you should see the exposed tab that holds the spring in place. Repeat these steps for the other front spring if it needs to be replaced as well. How to replace your front springs with new ones Grab your new front spring & locate the shortest side. Usually the side where the spring comes to an end. Rotate and place the shortest side next to the exposed tab- Using your flat head tool, carefully compress the new spring with a forceful quick motion to press it down and pop it back into place. Using your flat head tool, carefully compress the new spring with a forceful quick motion to press it down and pop it back into place. Repeat these steps for the other front spring if it needs to be replaced as well. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Charging Port Replacement (Elite)
A damaged charge port or charge port fuse may prevent the battery from charging. Required Equipment 8 mm socket (hinging deck only) Ratchet (for 8 mm socket) 3 Allen (non-hinging deck) Phillips Screwdriver Procedures Opening the Deck - Remove the 4 lock nuts under the left edge of the deck with an 8 mm socket to hinge and lift up on the left side of the deck to hinge open. Older Sport and Elite. Older Sport and Elite models will have 8 screws visible on the top of the deck that can be removed with a 3 mm Allen to access the battery. Charge Port Removal - Remove the 2 screws on the charge port with a Phillips head screwdriver and disconnect the charge port connector by pushing down on the clip before pulling apart. Charge Port Replacement - Open the fuse box on the charge port and pull the old charge port out through the hole in the side of the chassis making sure the fuse aligns with the slot in the charge porthole. Install the new charge port in the reverse order, reinstall the 2 screws, close the fuse box, and connect the charge port connector. Closing the Deck - Fold the deck back down to close and either install the 4 locknuts with an 8 mm socket or install the 4 finger nuts by hand instead. When installing the finger nuts tighten all 4 of them down firmly by the hand and then tighten them all again by hand one more time to ensure they are fully tightened. Models with non-hinging decks will require installing the 8 screws on the top of the deck with a 3 mm Allen. With the finger nuts installed in place of the locknuts, the deck can be opened in seconds with no tools. If the deck does not need to be opened frequently then it is recommended to keep the lock nuts installed for extra security. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Charging Port Cover Replacement (Elite Pro/Rover/Golf)
Squeaking while riding is usually from the suspension components and is normal with normal use. Squeaking can be reduced or eliminated with lubrication. Suspension components are usually the cause of squeaking and other components can be lubricated as well following the same procedures. Required Equipment Phillips Screwdriver Procedures Remove Charge Port Cover - Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws on the charge port cover to remove. The charge port is meant to protect the battery from dust and splashes of water but does not waterproof the battery compartment. Remove Charge Port Cover - Use a Phillips head screwdriver to install the 2 screws on the charge port cover to install the new cover. The actual charging port is contained within the battery that is inside the chassis compartment. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Connectors Overview
Comprehensive Guide of all connectors used on CycleBoard models. Battery Connectors XT- 90 - Pull apart firmly at the connector to disconnect. Deans - Pull apart firmly at the connector to disconnect. Motor Connectors Connector Type 1 - Twist the silver ring loose (counterclockwise) before pulling apart. Align pattern on the connector to push together and twist the silver ring clockwise to secure. Connector Type 2 - Pull apart firmly at the connector to disconnect. Align the arrows on each side of the connector before pushing back together. Connector Type 3 - Pull apart firmly at the connector to disconnect. Align the arrows on each side of the connector before pushing back together. Connector Type 4 - Score the shrink tube carefully with a knife and peel away by hand to remove from the 3 motor connectors and the sensor connector. Press the clip on the sensor connector before pulling apart. Ensure the 3 motor wires are covered with the green covers when plugged back together (new motors or controllers will come with new green covers). Controller/Throttle Connectors Connector Type 1 - Pull apart firmly at the connector to disconnect. Align the arrows on each side of the connector before pushing back together. Connector Type 2 - Score the shrink tube carefully with a knife and peel away by hand to remove before pulling the connector apart. The 5 silver tabs should only be visible on one connector when pushing together. Connector Type 3 - Score the shrink tube carefully with a knife and peel away by hand to remove and then press down on the latch to unlock before pulling apart. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
LCD Display Error Codes
Introduction to error codes of all models of CycleBoard and some fixes to it. Error codes are specific to the style of display and this guide covers all generations of displays. If there is no error code and the display turns on, but the board does not move after pushing to start, then follow the brake sensor adjustment guide. Motor Errors/Hall Sensor - Unplug and plug in the motor connector inside the chassis and replace the motor if that does not resolve the issue. Throttle Errors - Unplug and plug in the throttle connector at the top of the handle and replace the throttle/LCD if that does not resolve the issue. Controller Error - Replace the controller. Low Battery/Under Voltage - Replace the battery. Communication/Receive Error - Check the throttle/LCD connector at the top of the handle as well as the throttle cable connector inside the chassis where it connects to the controller. Elite/Elite Pro/Rover/Golf (2020 - ) Procedure - With the display on the main screen, short press the center power button several times until the lower portion of the screen shows ERR. Error Codes 000 - No Error 006 - Low Battery Level 007 - Motor Error 008 - Throttle Error 009 - Controller Error 010 - UART Receive Error 011 - UART Receive Error Elite Pro/ Rover (2019) Procedure - With the display on the main screen, the error code will be displayed in the top left corner of the display where the speed is normally displayed and there will be a warning symbol on the display. Error Codes Error 0 - Under voltage Protection Error 1 - Overvoltage Protection Error 2 - Controller Malfunction Error 4 - Communication Fault Error 5 - Hall Sensor Malfunction (Motor) Error 6 - Throttle/Display Malfunction Error 7 - Brake Malfunction 1% Battery - Throttle/Display Malfunction Elite (2017-2019) Procedure - With the display on the main screen, short press the upper power button several times until the lower portion of the screen reads E-000. Error Codes Error 1 - Motor Fault Error 2 - Turn Fault Error 3 - Controller Failure Error 4 - Power Brakes Error 5 - Under voltage Protection Error 6 - Communication Fault: Throttle isn’t receiving a signal from the motor controller Error 7 - Communication Fault: Motor controller isn’t receiving a signal from the throttle Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
LCD Display Replacement
The LCD Display is designed to be easily replaced by the user in the unlikely event that it gets damaged. Required Equipment 3 mm Allen Wrench 5 mm Allen Wrench Recommended Equipment Rubber Mallet (Hammer) Procedures Loosen the Grips - Use a 3 mm Allen Wrench to loosen the screw on the collar of the handgrip and a 5 mm Allen to loosen the screw at the end of the handgrip (2-3 turns). Remove the Hand Grip - Twist the handgrip with one hand as you pull it off. If it is too hard to remove, then loosen the end screw 1 revolution at a time until the handgrip can be pulled off. Remove the Display- Disconnect the old throttle by pulling apart firmly at the connector with 2 hands. Loosen the set screw under the display with a 2 mm Allen enough to slide the display off the handle. Install the Display - Loosen the set screw in the new display enough to slide it onto the hand and plug in the connector. Install the Hand Grip - When installing the handgrip use a rubber mallet to tap it onto the hand bar to make it easier to install then tighten the 5 mm screw on the handgrip. Tighten the Throttle - Tighten the display in the desired position with a 2 mm Allen and sure that there is ⅛” gap at a minimum between the throttle and the handgrip to prevent the throttle from sticking. The gap between the throttle and the handgrip ensures that the throttle does not rub which could potentially cause the throttle to stick. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Motor And/Or Brake Disk Replacement
Motor or brake disk replacement guide for all current models of CycleBoard. Required Equipment 8 mm socket Ratchet (for 8 mm socket) 4 mm Allen (for brake disk) Adjustable Crescent Wrench Diagonal Cutters (or scissors) Procedures Open the Deck - Remove the 4 locknuts under the left edge of the deck and hinge open toward the right of the board. Remove the Fender - Remove the 5 screws on the fender with a 3 mm Allen and place the fender on top of the battery (skip the step if no fender is installed). Disconnect the Motor Connector - Cut any zip ties in the way with diagonal cutters in order to access the motor connector. Pull the cable up to gain access to the connector, twist the silver connector counterclockwise until it disengages with the threads, and then pull the connector apart. With the connector apart, pull the motor side of the cable out of the black RTV sealant. Models without the twist lock can be pulled apart. Older models with 3 single wires (yellow/green/blue) and a fourth 5 pin connector will need to have the shrink tube cut off with a utility knife or scissors before disconnecting. Remove Motor Mounting Hardware - Remove the motor nut with an adjustable wrench or a socket (21, 19, or 18 mm depending on the model) as well as the motor screws (right above motor nut) on both sides of the motor shaft with a 4 mm Allen (older models may require a 3 mm Allen). Drop the Motor - Use an adjustable crescent wrench on the motor shaft to adjust the shaft until the flat sides of the shaft are parallel with the slot in the swingarm. Once aligned it should be easy to lift the rear of the board from the swing arm off the motor. Remove the Brake Disk - Remove the 6 screws on the brake disk with a 4 mm Allen and take the disk off (older models may require a 3 mm or a 5 mm Allen for the brake disk screws). Installing the Brake disk - Install the new brake disk in the same orientation as below and tighten the 6 screws a second time to ensure all screws are fully tightened. Try not to touch the surface of the disk by handling it by the edges to prevent contamination of the braking surface. Install the Motor Keepers - Install the motor keepers (pear-shaped black plates) all the way onto the shaft on each side and drop the swing arm of the scooter onto the motor. Make sure the motor keepers fit on the inside of the swingarm and the brake disk lines up inside the brake pads. The small hole in the keepers should face upward when the motor is installed. Install Motor Mounting Hardware - Install the motor screw with a 4 mm Allen on each side of the motor, followed by the motor washer (bend side facing down and toward the motor), and finally install the motor nut and tighten an adjustable crescent wrench. Reinstall the fender after running the motor cable into the chassis. Motor Connector - Reconnect the motor connector by aligning the arrows or patterns on each side of the connector, pushing the connector firmly together, and then tightening the silver ring with (clockwise). After tightened, push the connector down into the floor of the controller compartment. Single connectors without a twist-lock can simply be pushed together after aligning the 2 sides. With older models that have 4 connectors, ensure that the 3 single wire connects are covered with the green translucent covers. Close the Deck - Press the cable down into the slot on the left side of the board where it enters the chassis, and close the deck making sure not to pinch any cables. Install the 4 locknuts under the left edge of the deck and tighten with an 8 mm socket. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Throttle Replacement – Elite Pro/Rover G1
Throttle replacement guide for Rover and Elite Pro models delivered in 2019 with the thumb throttle separate from the display. Required Equipment 3 mm Allen 5 mm Allen Flat Head Screwdriver Procedures Hand Grip Removal - Use a 3 mm Allen Wrench to loosen the screw on the collar of the handgrip and a 5 mm Allen to loosen the screw at the end of the handgrip (2-3 turns). Twist and pull off the handgrip. Throttle/LCD Removal - Use a 3 mm Allen to loosen the 4 screws under the LCD brackets and the screw on the throttle and slide all the components off the handlebar. Throttle Separation - Use a flat head screwdriver to separate the old throttle by inserting it into the body of the throttle and twisting. Pull the wire and sensor out of the slot in the old throttle and throw away the rest of the throttle components. Throttle Assembly - Remove the wire and sensor from the new throttle and insert the sensor from the LCD display into the new throttle. Tuck the silver collar on the wire into the body of the new throttle. Throttle Assembly - Install the spring back onto the body of the new throttle making sure the end of the spring is inserted into the hole on the thumb throttle component. Install the throttle cover onto the spring so the other end of the spring is inserted into the hole on the cover. Twist the cover counterclockwise with respect to the body of the throttle and snap it into place when the parts align. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Removing the CycleBoard Elite Pro Controller
All CycleBoard Elite pro models come with a controller unit in the chassis of the board. If your board has a defective controller and needs to be replaced, follow the steps below: Removing the Elite Pro Controller Video Required Equipment New Controller Unit 2.5 mm Allen Key Some Elbow Grease Procedures Opening your CycleBoard Chassis- Remove the locking deck bolts from under your CycleBoard. Open the hinging deck to expose the inside of the CycleBoards Chassis. This will give you access to the controller unit, located towards the back of your Board. Locate the ELITE PRO CONTROLLER UNIT- Untuck the cables from the controller area, exposing the boards controller unit (Small silver Box). Locate & disconnect the BRAKE SENSOR- The smallest of the wire connections. You may have to remove a shrink wrap coating on the ends of the wire connectors. Go ahead & do so by carefully cutting off the shrink wrap with a pair of scissors. Pinch the sides of the connector- Pinch the sides with your index finger & thumb. Using your other hand, gently pull the connectors apart, making sure to not pull from the wires themselves. Locate & disconnect the THROTTLE DISPLAY CONNECTOR- The medium sized wire connector. Using the same method as the brake sensor, carefully pinch & pull apart the ends of the brake sensor connectors. Under your CycleBoard, you will find two small black screw holes. Once you locate the holes, you will notice that there is a protective coating covering the screw holes. You will need to remove this coating to get to the controller mounting screws. Using your 2.5mm ALLEN KEY- Scrape off the protective coating exposing the controller mounting screw holes. Once you have removed the coating, use your 2.5mm Allen key to unscrew both of the mounting screws holding down the controller unit. Once the screws are removed from under the deck, clear any other stuffed wires from around the controller area. USING YOUR FINGERS- Carefully rock the controller back and forth, loosening the controller from the thermal bonding underneath the unit. Once you feel it detach you should now be able to move the controller around freely. Locate & disconnect the TAIL LIGHT CONNECTOR- The smallest remaining wire connector. It should be connected to a small rectangle DC power converter. Locate & disconnect the BATTERY CONNECTOR- The big yellow connector cable. Pinch and carefully pull the connector ends apart. Lastly, locate & disconnect the MOTOR CONNECTOR- The big black long connector cable. This will be the last connector holding in your controller unit. You are now ready to install your new CycleBoard Elite Pro Controller unit! Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Rear Tire/Tube Replacement (10" x 4")
First Gen Rear Tire Removal Guide for Rover G1. Please Refer to the Rear Wheel Removal Guide to fully remove the rear wheel before working on the tire. It is recommended to have a bike or tire shop perform the work. Required Equipment Steel Tire Spoons (a longer handle will help) 5 mm Allen WD-40 (or grease) Procedures First Bead Removal - Deflate the tire fully and apply the Apply WD-40 or similar lubricant to the bead of the tire where it meets the rim of the motor. Insert one tire spoon and pry the bead over the rim and then insert a second spoon next to the first and pry the bead over the rim as well. Push the spoons down on each side of the axle and use the axle as a leverage point to rotate the spoons in opposite directions Second Bead Removal - Remove the inner tube with the tire halfway off (deflate the tube as much as possible). Push the tire off the rest of the way and use the tire spoons if necessary. First Bead Installation - Repeat the same procedures to install the first bead of the tire (lubricate the beads of the tire before installing). When the tire is halfway on slide the new innertube on and inserts the valve through the valve hole in the rim. Make sure the valve is as straight as possible when the tube is installed. Second Bead Installation - Pry the second bead onto the tire. It may be helpful to have a second person and 3 tire spoons. It may also help to inflate the tube slightly to push the tire toward (make sure the tube does not get under the bead of the tire). When fully installed inflate the tire to 35 PSI. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Rear Tire/Tube Replacement (10" x 3.5")
Rover GEN2/Golf. Rear Tire & Inner Tube replacement for Rover GEN2 and Golf models 10" x 3.5" Rear Tire/Inner Tube Replacement Video Required Equipment 8 mm socket 3 mm Allen 4 mm Allen Adjustable Crescent Wrench Diagonal Cutters (or scissors) Rubber Mallet Bike Pump Recommended Equipment 21 mm Socket Ratchet for 21 mm Socket Procedures Open the Deck - Remove the 4 locknuts under the left edge of the deck and hinge open toward the right of the board. Remove the Fender - Remove the 5 screws on the fender with a 3 mm Allen and place the fender on top of the battery. Disconnect the Motor Connector - Cut any zip ties in the way with diagonal cutters in order to access the motor connector. Pull the cable up to gain access to the connector, twist the silver connector counterclockwise until it disengages with the threads, and then pull the connector apart. With the connector apart, pull the motor side of the cable out of the black RTV sealant. Remove Motor Mounting Hardware - Remove the motor nut with an adjustable wrench or a 21 mm socket as well as the motor screws (right above the motor nut) on both sides of the motor shaft. Drop the Motor - Use an adjustable crescent wrench on the motor shaft to adjust the shaft until the flat sides of the shaft are parallel with the slot in the swingarm. Once aligned it should be easy to lift the rear of the board from the swing arm off the motor. Remove the Brake Disk - Remove the 6 screws on the brake disk with a 4 mm Allen and take the disk off. Try not to touch the surface of the disk by handling it by the edges to prevent contamination of the braking surface. Separating the Motor - Remove the 6 screws on the opposing side of the motor with a 3 mm Allen and screw back in two screws 180 degrees apart from approximately 3 revolutions on each screw. Use a rubber mallet along with the 3 mm Allen to tap on the screw screws lightly alternating between each screw. Separating the Motor - Thread a motor nut onto the brake disk side of the motor 22.5and tap that motor nut against the ground (use a soft surface such as carpet) and hold the motor with two hands by the tire. The impact will force the rim apart. Install the Inner Tube - Inflate the Inner Tube enough just to maintain a “donut” shape and install it into the tire with the valve facing upward and the arrow on the tire sidewall facing to the left when at the top of the tire. Install the Tire - Install the tire onto the motor so that the valve passes through the hole on the motor (the side with the motor cable) making sure to rotate the tire with respect to the motor so that the valve is as straight as possible. Then slide the rim of the motor back on. Install Motor Screw - Install the 6 motor screws and tighten fully in a star pattern with a 3 mm Allen. After tightening all of the screws, tighten each screw once more. Pull the valve out of the motor, hold in position with a finger, and inflate the tire to 35 psi. Install the Brake Disk - Install the brake disk with a 4 mm Allen by tightening all of the screws fully in a star pattern and then tightening each screw again to ensure all screws are fully tightened. Install the Motor Keepers - Install the motor keepers (pear-shaped black plates) all the way onto the shaft on each side and drop the swing arm of the scooter onto the motor. Make sure the motor keepers fit on the inside of the swingarm and the brake disk lines up inside the brake pads. The small hole in the keepers should face upward when the motor is installed. Install Motor Mounting Hardware - Install the motor screw with a 4 mm Allen on each side of the motor, followed by the motor washer (bend side facing down and toward the motor), and finally install the motor nut and tighten with a 21 mm socket or an adjustable crescent. Reinstall the fender with the 5 fender screws with a 3 mm Allen. Motor Connector - Reconnect the motor connector by aligning the 2 stripes on each side of the connector, pushing the connector firmly together, and then tightening the silver ring (clockwise). After tightening, push the connector down into the floor of the controller compartment. Close the Deck - Press the cable down into the slot on the left side of the board where it exits the chassis, and close the deck making sure not to pinch any cables. Install the 4 locknuts under the left edge of the deck and tighten them with an 8 mm socket. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com
Steering Springs Adjustment
The steering springs perform the function of centering the board during steering. This increases stability as the board will automatically steer straight without any input from the rider. Spring Clicking - The steering springs can in some cases make a clicking noise when steering from side to side (generally most noticeable when making sharp turns). This behavior is normal as the ground end of the spring can catch the tabs on the steering plates. As the springs wear in over the course of the first 50-100 miles any clicking noise will generally be eliminated or reduced to a very minor click or go away all-together. One helpful tip is to rotate any spring that is clicking with needle nose pliers and this will move the ground end of the spring to a different location to prevent further clicking. Have more questions? Contact support@cycleboard.com